It’s a slow start, with my companion nipping out to make a few calls before me meet up at a coffee cabin on the other side of the bridge next to our hotel - coffee is something that is increasingly becoming something we seek out on this trip and whilst it’s something I take for granted in Shoreditch, I’m glad of the luxury whenever we find an artisanal barista here. We order breves, muffins and bagels which are really excellent and give us some fuel as we pack up the car to leave Gardiner behind - it’s been a great few days and I don’t mind admitting I’ll be sorry to leave Yellowstone behind.
That said, we still have some more of the park to see as we’re intending to drive on the only remaining east-west road left open so we can continue our journey across the state. We carry on past the Lamar Valley and head to the start of the Bearclaw Road to find that it’s completely closed to traffic by the snowfall and accessible only to snowmobiles. Given our off-road adventure a few days back, we’re loathed to test the Range Rover on a snow-covered road, so the only thing we can do is turn around and head back to Livingston. From there it’s another long drive through the plains to Billings, Montana - one of the larger cities in the state and a significant working town due to the oil deposits in the surrounding hills.
We arrive and check into our motel before heading out again - my companion has decided, after yesterday’s exertions, to get a massage at a place some distance away from the centre where we’re staying. I couldn’t imagine anything worse frankly, so he drops me at a Walmart several blocks away so that I can engage in some retail therapy (and see the sights, it is Walmart after all) - Montana is one of the few States to have zero sales tax, so I want to see if there any bargains.
Presently I start the walk down an arrow straight road that’s lined with shops, malls, fast-food places and car dealerships - these sorts of urban elements are so ubiquitous in the States that, other than the freezing temperatures, I could be anywhere in the country. As I move block by block, the quality and nature of the businesses start to change and when I arrive at the spa in which my companion is getting oiled up by a stranger, things are looking a little tired. That being said, and the weather not being the best, I wait in a cute little juice bar where I order an apple and lime juice - this is seen as some sort of advanced juice order by the extremely helpful staff, as they don’t usually serve it and assume I have secret juice-based health knowledge that’s underpinning my recipe. The reality is I don’t like overly sweet juice drinks and that’s the end of it.
When my companion finally emerges, surprisingly a little more tense than he expected - the quality of the experience leaves a little to be desired it turns out - we head back to the hotel to get changed and find dinner. The hotel is in the centre of Downtown Billings, but is eerily quite - a hallmark of many of our urban experiences so far. We head to Jake’s Steakhouse, which is pleasant enough, and gives us the chance to eat elk, but doesn’t quite hit the heights of some of the meals we’ve had thus far. We head for an ice cream at a retro-looking parlour, and then on to a quiet Irish bar for drinks - in a surreal clash of cultures, the group before us is composed of four cowboys, replete in the full Stetson, boots, and jeans.
A couple of beers later, we leave to try and find a livelier venue, but all of our other recommendations are either empty or closed - it really feels like the town is on hiatus during the winter season, so we head back to Jake’s for one last drink before hitting the hay at our hotel.